what to do if studio light gets overheated
padang • Senior Member • Posts: i,104
is my strobe too hot ?
I poped on eBay 2 Interfit Stellar 300 for a steal. I took a few frames, and they seem consistent - at least at the same power setting the temperature and power seems constant.
However they run very warm, and don't mix well with my 480EX.
Here is the shot with daylight setting of a white wall:
And the correctly white-balanced version:
Is information technology expected ? is there an obvious fix like putting a better flashtube ? Maybe they are old and need to exist replaced.
Thanks !
v_ • Senior Member • Posts: 1,931
Re: is my strobe too hot ?
The measured Kelvin value for a flash tube is changing over time. Not much, but information technology does. In one case you lot use a reflector or a softbox, or umbrella the Kelvin/WB value will change once more. So, no demand to worry!
Best manner to work is to set your lights up and set a custom WB using a grey carte. I usually set the WB for the principal light only, only sometimes I set it while all flashes go off.
At that place are correction gels that can absurd or warm your flash if it is really needed.
--
Viktor
'Happy shooting!'
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photolando • Veteran Member • Posts: 3,315
Re: is my strobe too hot ?
Every light out there is going to be a lilliputian different color temp wise. Especially hot shoe flashes and studio blazon strobes. Just the nature of the beast. That'southward why we have custom color balance. If your studio strobes match up well, you may have to add a color conversion type gel over your hotshoe flash and then it will match as well. If information technology's non that far off you may not demand to worry about it. Every bit you get more than equipment, endeavor and stay with the same brand of lights then they will at least be close temp wise.
Mike
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BAK • Forum Pro • Posts: 25,746
If it is a white wall...
... why isn't at lest i pic white?
And what happens when you employ the flash white residue setting,considering it is a flash unit of measurement, aftger all.
Plus I'1000 curious about shutter speed and aperture and ambiant calorie-free levels and what kind of modeling low-cal.
BAK
Gene L. • Veteran Member • Posts: iii,788
No, just different...
padang wrote:
I poped on eBay 2 Interfit Stellar 300 for a steal. I took a few frames, and they seem consistent - at least at the same power setting the temperature and power seems constant.
Good for you, make em work hard for you lot.
However they run very warm, and don't mix well with my 480EX.
Not surprising. My Vivitar 285 flashes are warmer than my Mobilights, though I can brand my Vivitar 285s lucifer the Mobilights with a CTB filter (Color Balance Bluish). Maybe you need a CTO filter (Color Remainder Orange) for the pocket-size flash. Try something like a 1/eight or 1/4 CTO.
Is information technology expected ? is there an obvious fix like putting a better flashtube ? Maybe they are sometime and demand to be replaced.
I suspect that they are fine, simply a different color temperature compared to the wink.
Equally for your wall photos, how practice yous know that the wall is true white? It would be more useful to show a photo using the strobe -Vs- a photo using the portable flash. If you lot shoot raw, you tin can procedure both for true white and then run across how many degrees 1000 difference there is between them. Procedure both again with the same white balance to become a visualization for the color departure.
Here are some things to consider. A flash will change color temperature as you lot vary the flash ability. Just how much depends on the design. For example, my 300 WS Mobilights vary by around 284 Thousand from min (1/8) to max power.
Also be enlightened that light modifiers can color your lite. Good quality modifiers cause very lilliputian colour shift, merely the stuff out of China is hit and miss. Generally the cheap stuff causes a shift toward blueish because they incorporate optical brighteners (bluing, like you detect in some laundry detergents). The slight blue tint from optical brighteners (OBs) fools the centre into thinking a cloth is a bright white. Materials designed for photographic utilize exercise not contain these brighteners. For the record, my Photek Softlighters have a nearly perfectly neutral color influence.
What to do most color differences between lights:
-
Try to employ matched components when you can.
-
Limit the ability departure every bit much as practical. You might experiment to see how much color shift you get from min to max power.
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Utilise the mismatched light(south) for lighting less critical things similar the background or hair.
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Use color matching filters. This won't be needed for your studio lights, but might be a skilful idea if the minor flash is significantly dissimilar.
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Sell everything and invest thousands of dollars in Broncolor lights and Chimera lite modifiers. You lot will never accept a colour mismatch again.
A trivial bit of color difference between light sources is not going to hurt annihilation except if doing color critical work, like items for a product catalog. In my stance, somewhere around 300 One thousand is where one might get-go to find the color differences in real world photos.
-Factor L.
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Re: No, just unlike...
You can become a neutral color residual, just by doing a custom white balance on the camera.
You lot take a flick of a Kodak 18% gray carte, or a white card, depending on the cameras instructions. Basically what you are telling the camera is that this is neutral, brand information technology that color. Once washed and yous shoot in the preset white residue or the custom white residuum (different manufactures have different names). you volition become expert color.
Had yous washed that with the wall (and information technology was white), the resulting images would of had a white wall, non orange or blue.
One of the differences why the monolight yous bought was warmer is considering they produce more power. If you lot turned them down to the least ability, they would get bluer in color.
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Gene 50. • Veteran Member • Posts: 3,788
Re: No, only unlike...
Quantum Assist wrote:
1 of the differences why the monolight you bought was warmer is considering they produce more power. If you lot turned them down to the to the lowest degree power, they would get bluer in colour.
My understanding is that the algorithm for controlling power has an upshot too. The portable flash uses an IGBT to instantly (more or less) shut of power to the wink tube, whereas the studio lights command power via the amount of charge in the capacitors. At that place are techniques to help go on the temperature more constant, simply non all manufacturers utilise them.
Well-nigh manufacturers do not specify color variance over their lights aligning range. An exception is Photogenic who land + - 200 K for the StudioMax 3 from i/32 to total ability, which is incredibly practiced considering that covers a half dozen-cease range. On the downwards side, they have an incredibly long i/120-sec flash duration at full ability.
A fleck off topic, simply I have been considering Quantums in place of the Mobilights for location work. How do the Breakthrough lights fare for color variation over their min/max power output?
-Gene Fifty.
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http://www.studiography.blogspot.com
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Re: is my strobe too hot ?
Have you considered correcting the lighting or One thousand temperature on your camera?
Jose
Source: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2814734
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